The Gilded Age of Gentlemen’s Accessories

Whenever I’m watching a TV series I find myself concentrating more on the jewellery accessories than the plot or drama unfolding. Call it an occupational hazard, I invariably wonder what the costume designer was thinking when they chose a particular accessory for a character. Because when it comes to fine jewellery and accessories, it’s the small details that say the most.

Photograph By Barbara Nitke/HBO

Season 2 of HBOs The Gilded Age doesn’t disappoint and although the women’s outfits and accessories were mesmerizing, I found myself drawn to the men’s particularly dapper looks, with some seriously stylish accessories gracing the screen.

Set in the early 1800’s between Manhattan and Newport, the TV series follows a melting pot of New York elite: the “new money” families who recently came into riches and “old money” families from established wealth, both of whom constantly found new ways to flaunt their wealth, often in attempts to climb the social ladder, or retain their position at the top of high society.

The series’ costume designer Kasia Walicka Maimone has gone to great lengths to show what luxury accessories were favoured at the time, whilst there has been some commentary around the use of artistic license with the women’s accessories taken from other decades, it’s generally accepted that the gentlemen’s accessories were spot on.

George Russell. Image by HBO

Fobs, cufflinks and tie pins adorn many of the gentlemen’s looks, adding both distinction and personal style. The tie pins in particular are seen on most of the male characters, in particular George Russell, the ruthless businessman representing the “new money” family, the practical use of a tie pin to secure a tie or cravat in place has the added bonus of showing wealth and status by incorporating rare gems.

Today tie pins, or “stick pins” as they are often referred to, are usually the reserved for true collector’s and appear in all different novelty forms and shapes. Whilst most (but not all) contemporary jewellers have stopped producing stick pins, there is a varied collection of distinctive men’s accessories on the antique market.

Modern men’s designers

One of my favourite jewellery designers is Nikos Koulis, the Greek based jewellery designer with impeccable style renowned amongst jewellers for his bold yet modern and contemporary styles. Judging from his Instagram, Nikos seems to save some of his most exquisite designs for himself, sporting some of the most stunning contemporary tie pins, lapel pins and brooches.

For more understated everyday gentlemen’s accessories, Kailis Jewellery has some affordable cufflinks, tie bars and collar stays.

Antique finds for men

For a more traditional take on tie pins, Bentley & Skinner have a comprehensive collection of gentlemen’s jewellery from stick pins to signet rings.

Want to know more? Contact me on hello@gildedculture.com