The Refined world of Jewellery Design and Illustration
Updated: Nov 3, 2023
I’m always interested in finding out the stories behind jewellery and who makes it, what many people many don’t know is the sheer number of people involved in the operation of creating a single piece of bespoke jewellery; the design, production, branding and all the other decision-making processes behind it.
One of the more hidden roles is that of a jewellery designer or illustrator. I recently caught up with Jen Rowlands from Refinery Row, a boutique design and illustration agency based in Perth, to find out more about the design process (plus stare at her incredibly beautiful works).
I first met Jen about 15 years ago when she was a young, outspoken jewellery apprentice - flash forward to 2023 and she is one of the most talented jewellery illustrators in the market, mother to a gorgeous little boy and provides customised jewellery design services for clients all over the world.
In an age where almost everything is digitised or AI enhanced, Jen’s work is exclusively created by hand demonstrating her true passion and connection to the creative process. She is a fervent advocate for customised jewellery design and is dedicated to finding the best solutions for her clients’ needs.
I sat down with Jen to find out a bit more about her experiences and approach to jewellery design:
How did Refinery Row come about?
Refinery Row came about after I saw a gap in the market for design services. I have been in the jewellery industry for over 2 decades and have had the pleasure of working with amazing companies of all sizes. I realised jewellers/ jewellery companies don't always have a design department and felt I could build a studio offering a range of contemporary and customised design and illustration solutions, while also considering my new role as a mum.
What are the main services you offer?
I offer Design solutions, Illustrations, Education services and custom one-off design to private clients.
Have you worked with any big brand names or celebrities?
I work with brands all over the world, some I can talk about and some I can't. A client with a brand in New York recently approached me to create a collection. One of the pieces from that collection was worn on the Met Gala red carpet by Pete Davidson.
What does a typical jewellery design process look like for you, and how long does it take?
Design projects can vary. They often include a lot of research to understand the client and their needs (both trade clients and private clients) as I believe understanding their core values is important to being able to deliver on expectations. A project may also include sourcing different options or materials, like gemstones, drawings, samples or prototypes and illustrations.
A custom design project often includes back and forward with clients, so may take between 2 to 12 weeks depending on the many moving parts and decisions made along the way.
What are the benefits of having a piece designed by a professional designer such as yourself?
Quality design is important because jewellery is extremely personal by nature and considered design allows the wearer to create a unique piece to mark and share personal moments of joy and significance.
When something is designed properly all aspects of the wearers needs and the all-important manufacturing processes and craftsmanship are considered and utilised to their fullest potential.
When I say “value of design” I’m referring to the initial problem-solving process where the best possible outcome is defined and important aspects like price, wearability, function, and storytelling are considered and celebrated.
What sort of price are people looking at for design services?
The design component of a custom-made process may vary from $150 upwards to $1000 or more. Getting the design right in the initial stages of the design phase will result in a piece that clients always reach for, wear with love and pride for a long time so the cost of design always pays off.
Have you seen a change in demand for what you offer?
I think people are very interest in Lab grown diamonds now, I think being a new option to the market people are exploring the pros and cons of what Lab grown offers.
I have also seen a big movement away from just diamonds, clients are utilising coloured stones to reflect their personality and special memories.
Most of my clients come to me because my process is very personalised and I'm seeing more appreciation for design details instead or only focusing on materials.
What is the most complex or challenging piece you’re had to design?
The trickiest piece I have had to design was a ring for a client. The ring itself didn't pose a challenge but the clients brief presented a massive challenge. My client had inherited a diamond after her mum had passed away and wanted to create a statement piece to remember her by. The problem: she wanted me to surprise her. She trusted me and my design process and gave me full creative licence to capture her special memories. As a designer herself she needed someone else to provide the perfect solutions in what was a very raw and emotional experience. She left me with a diamond and arranged to collect the ring on her birthday. It was a collection appointment filled with happy tears and I was blown away and honoured that she had chosen me to design and make her very personal piece.
You’re a fabulous illustrator, do you do all your jewellery designs by hand, or do you use computer?
Thank you. My illustrations are all hand drawn. I believe that hand drawn illustrations provide a beautiful communication tool in the design process and to the story of creation. The tiny, perfect imperfections create an authentic and unique design process and often allow more room for emotion and personality in the finer details of the design.
I also specialise in hand drawn illustrations as I believe the connection between hand and head is important for the creative process and the beautiful craftmanship found in creating jewellery.
Jen has been commissioned to provide design solutions for major brands and private clients alike, if you’d like to find out more about the design process ask your personal jeweller or speak to Jen!
As for her illustrations, Jen’s style and attention to detail is truly mesmerising. Her hand drawn illustrations are bespoke works of art in themselves. If you’d like to order one of Jen’s prints for your home or office she offers fine art, archive quality (100% cotton) prints of some of her artworks/illustrations in A5 to A1 sizes. She also offers commission illustrations at any size.
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